Thu. Mar 13th, 2025
‘the way in which by the woods: of mushrooms and mourning,’ with lengthy litt woon

I HAVE ONLY lately tuned in to mushrooms actually in any respect, regardless of a lot of a life spent engaged with the outside. So once I noticed a evaluate in late summer season of a brand new guide referred to as “The Method By the Woods: Of Mushrooms and Mourning”—half memoir, half primer on fungi—it caught my consideration.

“The Method By the Woods” (Amazon affiliate hyperlink) is by Lengthy Litt Woon, an anthropologist initially from Malaysia who has spent her grownup life dwelling in Norway. It’s without delay each an invite to the astonishing world of fungi and likewise the private story of a path of therapeutic from nice grief. I used to be handled to a dialog with Woon, about how she obtained began with mushrooming and the place it has led her.

Learn alongside as you take heed to the November 18, 2019 version of my public-radio present and podcast utilizing the participant beneath. You’ll be able to subscribe to all future editions on iTunes or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts right here).

Plus: Enter to win a replica of Woon’s guide, within the remark field on the very backside of the web page.

speaking mushrooms, with lengthy litt woon

 


 

Margaret Roach: Welcome, Woon, and thanks a lot for making time in your travels to speak right this moment.

Lengthy Litt Woon: Thanks very a lot, Margaret, for having me.

Margaret: I like watching your journey adventures on Instagram and wow, this guide has been translated into what number of languages and international locations already?

Woon: [Laughter.] Properly, in the intervening time, 14. Sure, so it was fairly shocking for me, sure.

Margaret: It’s an exquisite factor. It’s superb. You’ve resonated… it resonated, which is great. However so the guide begins on a tragic notice, with the revelation that your husband, who I imagine was then simply 54 years outdated, went to work someday and didn’t return. And I would like you to arrange the premise of the guide, the mushrooms and the mourning, for us.

Woon: Properly, sure, you’re proper. I imply, my husband dies on Web page 1.

Margaret: Sure.

Woon: And I discuss how this sudden, very sudden loss of life simply places me in a really, very darkish place, and the way very, very slowly, mushrooms saved me and introduced me in a manner again to life once more. So that’s what the guide is about.

Margaret: Sure. And reflections on him are available now and again, however a lot of the guide is about your journey in attending to know mushrooms. So it has an uncommon construction. It’s sort of two sorts of writing are in there, however the truth that, I feel you say in it, “seemingly unrelated topics comparable to mushrooms and mourning can in reality be related,” and they’re, they positively are.

So that you suffered this sudden loss and one way or the other, you discovered your self at an introductory assembly on the pure historical past museum in Oslo, is that the place it was?

Woon: Sure.

Margaret: …of the Better Oslo Fungi and Helpful Plant Society. You’re very humorous, by the way in which. You say that within the title of “the Better Oslo Fungi and Helpful Plant Society gave the impression of a sister group to the Norwegian Girls’s Hygiene Affiliation.” [Laughter.] So there you have been, and also you have been at this assembly, and what occurred? How did you find yourself there, anyway?

Woon: Oh, it was simply by probability. However mainly, I used to be, properly, after my husband died, I joined this bereavement group for individuals who had misplaced somebody. And I didn’t know anyone, however I’m not used to being in this type of group remedy classes, however I simply did it as a result of I knew I wanted one thing and I used to be desperately on the lookout for assist, for aid.

And there, properly, I met individuals in the identical state of affairs as myself. And you may see that everyone was, in a manner, on the identical stage. All people was on the lookout for aid really, and they also have been sharing issues they’d performed. After all, some individuals had performed yoga, others had tried meditation, after which anyone talked about this course, after which I believed, “Sure, why not? I’ll do something,” as a result of I used to be determined. So I simply went there. However after all, I used to be not anti-mushrooms, however I used to be simply mildly occupied with mushrooms, and my husband was, too. So sure. So I began this course.

Margaret: Serendipity then.

Woon: That’s proper.

Margaret: And so we’re then handled to kind of a few of your descriptions of “mushroom individuals,” and you ultimately study a few of their secret locations for foraging and this entire different world, this entire different group. And also you say that your coaching as an anthropologist in some methods ready you for this journey. Inform me somewhat bit about that, kind of this exploration that you just ended up on.

Woon: Sure. So this was a primary course in mushrooming, however after all, individuals do mushrooming. So I met this group of mushroom pickers–mushroomers, the mad mushroomers. And I used to be simply fascinated by them and naturally, it’s due to my coaching is that the anthropologists that I turned very drawn to this too. So not solely the mushrooms, but additionally the mushroom pickers, I write about in my guide.

After which after all, so this guide charts the 2 journeys, this outer journey, my discovery of this kingdom of fungi, and this bizarre tribe of mushroomers, and the way I began by being a novice and these mushroomers from the skin, and the way, by the journey of the guide, I discovered lots about mushrooms, however I additionally turn into one among these mad mushroomers. [Laughter.]

Margaret: Sure. Sure, sure.

Woon: Sure. So that’s the outer journey. After which after all, the internal journey is on this panorama of grief. And so the guide is about how these two journeys are intertwined.

Margaret: Sure. So that you’re confessing to be a mad mushroomer, are you? [Laughter.] [Above, the mad mushroomer in her element, from Woon’s Facebook page.]

Woon: Sure. Properly, I used to be madder earlier than. However sure, I’ve been very, sure, mad. However now, extra simply regular mad. Sure.

Margaret: So let’s discuss among the issues that you just or somebody who would go to such a category would be taught in that top quality: What’s a mushroom. Animal, vegetable or mineral or not one of the above? What’s a mushroom?

Woon: Not one of the above. And that shocked me, too, as a result of I believed, mushrooms, you go to the grocery store, you discover them among the many greens. So that you suppose that, I believed it was only a unusual kind of vegetable, however no. So mushrooms, they represent their very own kingdom and has its personal evolution on this entire evolution of life on our planet. It has its personal separate, its personal kingdom. So it’s neither one or the opposite. It’s, sure. That is the dominion of fungi. Sure.

Margaret: I laughed out loud, you will have just a bit line in there someplace the place you’re speaking about studying whether or not they’re animal, vegetable, mineral or not one of the above, the place you talked about that Linnaeus, the daddy of taxonomy, he’s attempting to categorise them, what, within the 1700s or one thing, and he positioned them, a few of them at the very least in Chaos with a capital C? [Laughter.]

Woon: Sure. So this, lots of people have been excited about this for a very long time.

Margaret: Sure. He was so pissed off attempting to categorize them. Even he who was the one who was alleged to make order. He mentioned, “I can’t.”

Woon: Sure, “I hand over.”

Margaret: He sort of banished them to this different place. [Laughter.] So how various are the fungi in comparison with, say, mammals? I feel you used that instance within the guide. How a lot of the inhabitants of the variety of species on the planet are on this kingdom?

Woon: Oh. Now you set me on the spot.

Margaret: I feel you mentioned 20 % versus mammals?

Woon: Sure, sure. And far, rather more than mammals.

Margaret: Mammals are like lower than 1%, I feel. No?

Woon: Sure, or 2 or one thing like that. So it’s a lot, a lot much less, sure. We’re surrounded by fungi. [Update: In the book, Woon writes that fungi are almost 20 percent of the world’s species, and mammals less than .2 percent.]

Margaret: Sure.

Woon: However after all, a whole lot of them are tiny. You don’t see them. You consider mushrooms because the cremini, the button mushrooms you see within the grocery store. However after all, I imply, we’re surrounded by mushrooms.

Margaret: And so they, such as you simply mentioned, I imply, we consider those within the grocery store within the vegetable part which have a cap and a white stem, they usually seem like a “mushroom” iconic form. However when you tune in–and thru a pal, a neighbor who’s a mycologist, I’ve been happening walks and studying somewhat bit, not such as you–however when you exit and permit your self to begin to see them, you see them all over the place.

Woon: Precisely. Sure. And that’s what has occurred, too, with this guide as a result of, O.Okay., I’ve a whole lot of editors world wide now, and now, they’re sending me photos of mushrooms that they see on the way in which to work. [Laughter.] I imply, they’re not likely occupied with mushrooms earlier than, they’re simply on this guide as a bit of literature. And now, they’re seeing mushrooms in all places.

Margaret: Sure. In between the cracks, after we had a moist spell not too long ago this fall, up the place I’m in New York State, and between the cracks within the pavement, within the shady areas, little knobby flat issues in clusters, after which different locations, there’s a giant gleaming, glistening orange factor. What’s that referred to as? The, mm-

Woon: Rooster of the woods?

orange-mushroomsorange-mushrooms

Margaret: … Jack o’lantern, Jack o’lantern…

Woon: Ah, Jack o’lantern. Sure. Sure. [Above, the Jack o’lantern mushroom, Omphalotus illudens, in Margaret’s garden. It is not edible.]

Margaret: … mushroom. And one other place, there’s these ones which might be melting with the black ink dripping down, the inky caps, and the puffballs. And none of them, they don’t seem like a “mushroom,” a whole lot of them; they don’t. Have you learnt what I imply?

Woon: I do know, I do know. And while you begin studying what you possibly can eat, and cooking them individually, the edible mushrooms, you uncover in a short time that all of them style very completely different they usually have completely different textures, consistencies. And so there’s nothing, I imply, to say that one thing smells “mushroomy” is kind of like, I feel solely individuals who have no idea sufficient about mushrooms would say a factor like that as a result of, sure, as a result of they scent very completely different.

Margaret: So right here we’re on this starting class and we be taught that they’re in their very own kingdom and that they’re very various. So then, we need to begin trying, possibly we exit on a stroll with the teacher, and we see one and we need to get to realize it. The place do you even start? I feel you say within the guide that to know your mushrooms, you must kind of use all of your senses. It’s important to… so that you’re out on a stroll otherwise you’re taking individuals on a stroll, what will we do? We dig it up? We have a look at it? We scent it? What will we do?

Woon: Properly, first, you must spot the mushroom. And typically, they aren’t really easy to identify as a result of they may very well be below some leaves or different natural matter. So first, you must discover the mushroom, after which it’s good to go on such a stroll with anyone who is aware of about mushrooms. So don’t simply go on the market with a subject information in hand. In truth, don’t do this [laughter], go together with anyone who is aware of, a neighborhood individual, and ideally, as a part of a course, a neighborhood course, so you’re a part of a gaggle and you may focus on, everyone could have questions and you may be taught your mushrooms one after the other.

And mainly, you must exit as a result of this isn’t theoretical information, that is sensible information in the event you’re ever going to need to decide them and eat them. As a result of, fairly often in books, they give the impression of being excellent. And so they don’t all seem like that out within the woods. And in addition, they give the impression of being very completely different when they’re younger and when they’re middle-aged after which when they’re very outdated, they give the impression of being all very completely different—the one identical species. So it is advisable to exit to, sure, if you wish to be taught something about mushrooms.

Margaret: Sure, with somebody who can mentor you.

Woon: That, too.

Margaret: Sure. So that you’ve referred to the edible side or not, and the kind of “Are you able to eat it?” query. It comes up early within the expertise of anybody who goes mushrooming and likewise within the guide. And but, all through the guide, there appears to be, on occasion, somewhat little bit of a stress round… you will have one chapter referred to as “50 Shades of Poison.” There’s all these horrible tales of mushrooms. They’re feared and this darkness about them. And so there’s somewhat little bit of, possibly, defensiveness. However that should kind of… do individuals simply ask about that on a regular basis, about “Are you able to eat this? Are you able to eat that?”

Woon: Sure. Folks do this. And naturally, individuals have this worry of mushrooms, which I feel is superb, as a result of the explanation why individuals worry mushrooms is as a result of they’ve heard about all this poisoning, they’ve heard all these poisoning tales, they usually know that some mushrooms are lethal. So I feel it’s excellent that persons are afraid of mushrooms.

However nonetheless, the purpose is that they’re afraid as a result of they have no idea their mushrooms. As a result of if your mushrooms, you’d know what to select and you may decide them confidently, and you wouldn’t be afraid. The rationale why you’re afraid is since you do not need the information. However for a begin, I feel it’s good that persons are afraid as a result of then, that may cease them from simply selecting something and placing it into their mouths.

Margaret: Sure. I used to be shocked that, in one of many anecdotes, you’re on a stroll, I don’t bear in mind precisely the place within the guide however I feel early on, you’re on a stroll with the membership or some chief, and the individuals move across the mushroom and everybody takes a sniff of it, smells it. After which, there’s this glorious part concerning the scent of mushrooms. And simply attempting to explain scent is nearly unattainable [laughter]. The chemistry of scent is so powerful.

And the way among the descriptors of how we’re supposed to determine the concept of a mushroom partly by what it appears to be like like, and what its gills seem like beneath the cap, if it has them, and the colour and the scale and the this and the that and the place it’s, however then additionally the scent. After which there’s these phrases within the scent descriptions within the outdated guidebooks that I don’t even know what these phrases imply, not to mention what it smells like. Have you learnt what I imply?

Woon: Sure. And that’s the reason I’ve this entire chapter, as a result of this was so tough for me. And I felt too that, properly, really, we do not need phrases for scent. We have now only a few phrases. We at all times use similes. So we’ll say this smells like a strawberry, or this smells like apricots, or this smells like a uncooked potato. We don’t have a phrase for that individual scent. And scent can also be very particular person, and people themselves, too, would scent issues completely different.

Our sense of scent adjustments, too. Should you’re on medicine, it may have an effect on your sense of scent and so forth. However scent is essential. And this is likely one of the methods, the connection between mushrooms and mourning. As a result of when my husband died, I felt as if all my senses have been simply knocked, simply shut down. And I didn’t really feel like consuming as a result of meals tasted like paper, had no style and so forth.

However being out within the woods and being compelled to make use of all my senses so as to determine these mushrooms, kind of woke me up once more. And kind of flicked the swap on of my senses. In order that was positively one of many methods wherein these two very disparate subjects are related for me.

Margaret: Sure. So I discussed originally that you just journey lots, and I like seeing the place you’re at in your Instagram and so forth. So does that imply, although, that many times, each place you go, if you then exit mushrooming, are you returned to the place of being a newbie mushroomer, as a result of you must meet the native inhabitants at every new place? Or are there some kind of world species or some… have you learnt what I imply? Since you began in Norway.

Woon: Sure, you’re proper. I imply, you’re proper. As a result of native information is essential, and I write within the guide about how, very, fairly often, the individuals who get poisoned by mushrooms are immigrants, regardless of which nation you’re in.

Margaret: Oh!

Woon: So sure, as a result of they exit mushrooming, like in Norway, they exit mushrooming they usually discover one thing which appears to be like very a lot alike what they know from dwelling and which is a scrumptious mushroom and in the event you’re actually unfortunate, this can be a lethal mushroom on this different new place. Sure. In order that’s why native information is essential.

After all, I’m not a newbie the way in which I used to be once I began as a result of now, at the very least I can place… if I discover a mushroom, I can place it in a gaggle or within the household. I’ll know the place, which kind of mushroom we’re speaking about. However I’d by no means be 100% certain of the species. I actually would wish a neighborhood individual, a neighborhood information.

However the good factor, after all, once I’m touring proper now with my guide and speaking about it’s that a whole lot of native individuals need to present me their secret spots. [Laughter.] So I’ve been mushrooming in all places now, and persons are glad to indicate me their spots.

Margaret: Sure. I used to be —and once more, I’m within the Hudson Valley of New York State, so not in Norway—and but, I noticed you point out mushrooms that I’m conversant in, I imagine. I feel, is it shaggy mane or inky cap? [Above, the edible shaggy mane at Margaret’s, and when “inky” or deliquescing, below.] Is that what it… is it Coprinus? Is that what it’s? Coprinus comatus?

Woon: Sure. Sure. Coprinus is the group, sure. [More on shaggy mane.]

Margaret: Sure. And I feel you talked about the puffballs, you talked about Jack o’lantern. And so, is that as a result of in components of Europe and components of North America, we’ve species in widespread, is that the case?

Woon: Sure. Sure. Sure.

Margaret: It’s the case. O.Okay., I see.

Woon: Sure. And I’ve this little anecdote in my guide concerning the matsutake, this mushroom that the Japanese love and which the Norwegians don’t love.

Margaret: [Laughter.]

Woon: And it took some time earlier than scientists found that we are literally speaking about the identical mushroom, the identical species. So sure, I imply, you’ll find mushrooms, the one, the identical species may unfold worldwide. In truth, there are maps. Should you go into the web, you’ll find maps-

Margaret: Distribution maps? Vary maps.

Woon: … that present you the way sure species, how they unfold and the way widespread they’re.

Margaret: Sure. Huh. So in the previous few minutes, I needed to speak about consuming mushrooms, as a result of one of many major causes, you say within the guide, “one of many major causes I obtained into mushrooms was that I like consuming them.” And you then discuss how possibly the way in which we strategy cooking them isn’t to soften some butter within the pan, put the mushrooms in and fry them up—possibly that’s not proper in any case. So inform us somewhat bit about different methods to strategy having fun with mushrooms, cooking mushrooms.

Woon: I do have a chapter within the guide with some recipes and I cannot say that it’s not proper. I imply, you are able to do no matter you need along with your mushrooms. It’s simply that…

Margaret: Sure, but it surely’s not the one manner.

Woon: Sure, it’s not the one manner, that was my level. It’s not the one manner. And actually, going again to the matsutake once more, I came upon that possibly the explanation why Norwegians don’t just like the matsutake is as a result of they’ve been cooking it fallacious, as a result of they fry it in butter. And the style, the style molecules within the matsutake, they’re launched solely involved with water, not with fats. In order that’s why the Japanese prepare dinner it in soups, or they put it of their rice, or issues like that. So anyway, that’s one factor.

And the opposite factor about cooking mushrooms is that we’re used to excited about them as savories, you will have salt and pepper and you’ve got it in a pie or one thing like that. Nevertheless, there are some very inventive mushroomers on this Norwegian membership, mushrooming membership, and who love cooking.

And someday, I used to be at a mushroom celebration and anyone introduced a cake, a mushroom cake, made out of porcini. And what it had was, O.Okay., this was a tackle a classical Norwegian cake, which is named the Tosca cake, Tosca is within the opera, and the Norwegian Tosca cake has a prime, just like the crème brûlée, it’s like croquant, it’s crispy on the highest, onerous, after which you possibly can hit it with a spoon after which it is going to crack. And the Norwegian, the conventional Norwegian Tosca cake has obtained almonds on the highest, so it’s like almond brittle. Nevertheless, this girl had include a cake and she or he had used porcini, what you name boletes, the king boletes.

Margaret: Sure.

Woon: She used that because the brittle on the highest of this candy cake, and it was superb. So after that, I began on the lookout for different recipes the place you may use mushrooms in desserts. And naturally, I imply, extra mushroom style, it’s only a style, you may stretch it to the left and make it savory, or can take it to the precise and make them into desserts. So, sure, I’ve some recipes for chanterelle ice cream and stuff like that. Sure.

Margaret: Properly, I beloved the guide.

Woon: Oh, thanks a lot, Margaret.

Margaret: Lengthy Litt Woon’s “The Method By the Woods: Of Mushrooms and Mourning.” I beloved the guide, and I do know that listeners and readers of the weblog are going to find it irresistible, too. So I’m so glad you made time to talk right this moment, and thanks. And glad travels. You’re on many adventures and I hope you see all types of latest life-list mushrooms. [Laughter.]

extra from lengthy litt woon

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I’LL BUY A COPY of Lengthy Litt Woon’s “The Method By the Woods: Of Mushrooms and Mourning” for one fortunate reader. All you must do to enter is reply this query within the feedback field on the very backside of the web page:

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MY WEEKLY public-radio present, rated a “top-5 backyard podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper within the UK, started its tenth yr in March 2019. In 2016, the present gained three silver medals for excellence from the Backyard Writers Affiliation. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station within the nation. Hear regionally within the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Jap, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the November 18, 2019 present utilizing the participant close to the highest of this transcript. You’ll be able to subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts right here).

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